Cycling amidst the ruins - My trip to Hampi (Part 1 of 2)

Hampi trip for me is like that ubiquitous trip to Goa that always gets cancelled. With weather and friends taking turns in playing a spoilsport, I couldn't visit this place though I desperately wanted to. Post COVID-19, it was nearly impossible to do a trip with public transport hardly in operation. After shifting to Hyderabad, some family responsibilities put my travelling in the backseat. So finally my brothers & I decided to do the trip during the long Christmas weekend. 

Boarding a long distance bus was a bit eerie given the situation. I took a deviation from the usual budget stays/hostels that I stay at & booked a hotel kind of a homestay. We hired bicycles for a couple of days and started off.

The first image that usually pops up when you search for Hampi is the iconic stone chariot and that was our first stop. An offbeat path along the course of the river Tungabhadra to cut short the distance gave way for more adventure. We had to carry our cycles at places due to steps at a couple of temples on the way, cycle on the rocks & ascend/descend steep slopes while hoping we don't puncture the tyres. 

The Stone Chariot at Vijaya Vittala Temple

 

The Vijaya Vittala Temple housed the stone chariot & musical pillars. The temple was undergoing renovation and some places were out of bounds for visitors. I just couldn't stop wondering as to how the temple would have been before being ruined. The dilapidated gateways and the age old trees give it a ghostly appeal. My brother had planned to wear traditional clothes inside the temple for the sake of a few pictures and that plan was perfectly executed. 

On our way back, we took the longer route to visit a few more monuments. Hampi has three water tanks viz, the octagonal bath, queen's bath and the pushkarni or the stepped tank. The Queen's bath is a 500 year old structure with elements of Indo-Islamic architecture and is surrounded by a moat on all the sides probably to maintain privacy. There are arched bays on all the sides with stucco ornamentation on the ceilings. It is told that there used to be a wooden canopy but the same was destroyed. The stepped tank in the royal enclosure is a treat for everyone with an eye for symmetry & is said to be used for religious purposes. It is evident that Hampi had a well connected network of canals that supplied water to all the buildings/public baths and the remains can be seen at various places. 

Stepped Tank

Queen's bath

We then proceeded to the Royal enclosure where a massive stone platform named the Mahanavami Dibba was present. This place was used by the king during Dussehra to watch events. The base resembled that of a Mayan pyramid. The platform has a lot of carvings especially of horses. A massive monolithic door with hinges can still be seen at the entrance, though not in operation. 

Monolithic Door

We cycled further & visited the Zenana enclosure which was reserved for the ladies of the aristocracy. The enclosure has tall compound walls and watch towers, which were supposedly guarded by eunuchs to prevent any trespassing. All the structures in this complex exhibit a fusion of Indian and Islamic architecture. The base of Queen's palace (the largest one in Hampi) is the only proof that it once existed & the 3 tiered basement suggests that the structure might have been an example of grandeur. The treasury building is the boring of all the structures. The elephant stable is another massive structure that could house 11 elephants in Islamic style domed chambers with small openings into the adjacent ones. The central hall resembles more of a temple. A small mandapa on the top was supposedly used by the royal band during processions. The royal guards' quarters are located adjacent to the stables.

Elephant Stables

One of the watchtowers

The most prominent structure in the Zenana enclosure undoubtedly would be the Lotus Mahal. Aptly named, the mahal takes the shape of a lotus bud. The intricately carved arches create a surreal effect & the symmetrical shape of the Mahal is a manifestation of the architectural finesse possessed by the empire. Some accounts mention that Zenana enclosure was not meant for the ladies of the royal family but instead used for important matters of the king. Also, that the Lotus Mahal was indeed a council hall and treasury indeed their armoury and therefore located in the vicinity of the elephant stables. 

The arches of the Lotus Mahal

The Lotus Mahal

Enroute Matanga Hill, we stopped at the shrines of Ugra Narasimha and Badavi Linga. The idol of Ugra Narasimha (biggest monolithic idol in Hampi) depicts him in an angry form seated cross legged on the seven headed snake Adishesha. It is said that the idol of Goddess Lakshmi was sabotaged during the Mughal raids and remains of her broken hand can still be seen resting on the deity's back. The Badavi Linga is named so as it was consecrated by a poor woman. The Shiva Linga which measures 3 metres in height is made out of black stone with eyes carved on it. Legend has it that the shrine is filled with water due to a stream flowing beneath. The same can also be attributed to the pentagonal (or maybe hexagonal) opening on the ceiling which naturally lights up the shrine. An octagenarian man takes care of this shrine which luckily escaped the wrath of the Mughal raids.

Badavi Linga

Ugra Narasimha Swamy

It was dusk by then and the plan to climb Matanga Hill had to be postponed. We instead proceeded to the Hemakuta hill to catch a glimpse of the setting sun and the orange hues of the evening sky. After a quick dinner at Mango Tree, we retired for the night.

... (continued in Part 2)

More pictures from the trip on my Instagram handle