Rameswaram and Dhanushkodi !

Rameswaram and Dhanushkodi have been there on my list of places to travel for a long time. The trip didn't materialize as I didn't have a direct train connection except once midweek. Fortunately before the Dussehra leave, I had a weekend to spare. And hence, I decided to take the bus and check these places off my list. 

I started on a Friday night from Coimbatore. My initial plan was to witness dawn from Arichal Munai which is at the tip of Indian mainland. That unfortunately didn't materialize. I vacillated about getting down at Pamban Bridge but gave that up. I reached Rameswaram at 6 am. The twilight before sunrise during different phases of dawn, the fishing boats sailing at the horizon, devotees taking a holy dip and the town commencing its activity were a feast to the eyes. I clicked a few pictures and proceeded immediately to Arichal Munai. 

                                       Agni Theertham, Rameswaram                                                    

The road to Arichal Munai was inaugurated only in mid 2017. Transportation earlier was provided by one of those rickety vans/tempos that ran on the imaginary road with tyres half sunk in the sand and with sea all around. It was indeed an adventurous ride. The new road and government buses now made it easier, safer and cheaper. The ride was one amazing experience offering beautiful views of the sea on both the sides. The road has a boundary wall of stones to reduce the accumulation of sand. Being early morning, it was common to see fisherwomen get into the bus and proceed to work. They were flamboyant in their own way with their hair tied in a bun with a boundary of strong scented jasmine flowers tied with a string, their foreheads sporting a circle of vermillion, a horizontal dash of Vibhuthiai (ash) and a shade of turmeric smeared all over the face. You get to know a few fun facts from their experiences as you strike a conversation with these ladies.

Road to Arichal Munai

On reaching Arichal Munai, the first thing I witnessed was the turquoise blue shade of the sea which was my first and a squabble of seagulls getting ready for breakfast. My temptation to get into the sea was contained upon seeing a caution board. There were a couple of priests chanting mantras that supposedly provided salvation to the ancestors of their clients, a few ladies selling cucumbers and pineapples, autowallahs practicing their Hindi to cater to the North Indian tourists, and a group of pilgrims sporting bright dotted turbans watching the sea and smoking cannabis. As I went further away, all I could see was a swathe of sand and an endless body of water. This reminded me of Coleridge's lines from The Rime of the Ancient Mariner; "Water water everywhere, nor any drop to drink". Switching on the GPS makes you feel that you're stranded somewhere in the sea in between India and Sri Lanka. It is said that the lights of Talaimannar can be seen on a clear night but nobody is allowed to stay beyond 6 pm. 

Tip of the Indian Mainland

                                                

Panoramic view of Arichal Munai

From there I proceeded to Dhanushkodi where the ruins of a once thriving commercial town which was destroyed completely during the cyclone of 1964 could be seen. The erstwhile town had a Hospital, Railway Station, Church, School, Customs Office, all destroyed in a night along with the populace. Prior to 1964, a single ticket from Madras to Colombo comprised train journey from Madras Central to Dhanushkodi, a ferry from Dhanushkodi to Talaimannar and a train journey from Talaimannar to Colombo. The town now is a ghost town deemed unfit for inhabitation. All you find are hamlets of fishermen, shops of the fisherwomen selling beads, shells and refreshments. A short conversation with a man in his mid 50s revealed how his family was affected by the cyclone first and Tsunami next. He was born after the cyclone and recalls tales of the disaster told by his father. His father who passed away a few years ago was popularly called Neechal Kaali (Neechal means swimming in Tamil) as he once swam from Dhanushkodi to Talaimannar. The beach looked deserted and the water was pristine. I sat on the beach looking at swarms of jellyfish, spotted a dead puffer fish and soaked in the tales of the place. The town extended to a further two kilometres but the sea has taken over. The smaller ruins we see now are in the aftermath of the 2004 Tsunami when the sea receded by 500 metres and has stayed put since then.

Ruins of the Church, Dhanushkodi

The Ramanathaswamy temple was the next place in my visit. Being a sucker for temple architecture and staying in Tamil Nadu, you have no dearth of options. The mandapam at this temple is the longest of all temples in India and is sobriqueted as The Corridor of Faith. What could be improved is the maintenance here especially as there are 22 wells inside the complex where devotees take a holy dip. There are a lot of temples around, that are related to the epic Ramayana. Limestone shoals that float in water are displayed at a few temples.


The House of former President, Late Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam is one place I didn't want to miss out. The moment you enter the locality, you find all shops with the name either President or Kalam. After living in the Rashtrapati Bhavan and coming back to this small house located in a narrow street when the government would provide a retirement house, speaks volumes about Dr. Kalam's simplicity. I felt goosebumps looking at the numerous Doctorates, medals and the Bharat Ratna he was conferred with. The life he led serves as an inspiration for people of all ages.

The house of Late Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam

I reserved my evening to pay a visit to the Pamban Bridge. A friend of mine suggested me to go at either dawn or dusk for enchanting views from the bridge. The Rail bridge opens up to allow ferry movement and is the oldest Cantilever and sea bridge in the country. This bridge was damaged partly during the 1964 cyclone but it still stands strong. The road bridge complements the rail bridge in connecting Rameswaram to the mainland. I badly wanted to walk on the Rail bridge but the warning board kept me at bay. So, I had to adhere to the footpath on the Road bridge. Walking on the bridge with the sea breeze hitting your face, watching the fishermen collecting the carpets containing dried fish and chirping of the birds in the background was truly a bliss. On the sparsely populated side, you see fishermen arranging their nets for the next day. On the other side you find a flotilla of fishing boats anchored. Witnessing sunset from the bridge was surreal and provided a perfect ending to yet another solo trip !

Rail Bridge, Pamban

Fishing Boats as seen from Pamban Bridge at sunset